Chances are that whenever the word "diamond" is mentioned, the image that immediately comes to mind for most people is that of the ubiquitous round brilliant. Developed at the turn of the 20th century, the 57 or 58-faceted (if you include the culet) Modern Brilliant is the most popular cut given to a diamond due to its 1) sale-ability, representing roughly 75% of all diamonds sold; 2) insurability, it being the shape that is least likely to get damaged or chipped, and 3) desired optics, it being the cut that maximizes potential brilliance due to the mechanics of its shape.
Historically, the round brilliant wasn't always as we know it today. It went through certain stages in its evolution with each advance in diamond cutting technology throughout the Medieval and Renaissance, all the way leading up to the development of the modern era's first industry benchmark in the 1900s.
The Old European Cut (OEC): Precursor to the Modern Brilliant
Developed in the mid 18th century, the Old European Cut was the forerunner of Modern Brilliants and was the most advanced in use in the 19th century. Its characteristics include a very small table, a heavy crown, a more rounded shape, and a shallower pavilion. To this day, this antique style cut attracts a select niche of gem collectors who love the charm of its Old World feel and aren't at all bothered by its relatively conservative fire when compared to a Modern Brilliant.
Industry Benchmarks for the Round Brilliant
In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky developed the American Standard, otherwise known as the American Ideal or the Tolkowsky Brilliant, which became the benchmark for North America. It was derived from mathematical calculations that considered both brilliance, or the total light reflected from the diamond, and dispersion, or how white light refracts and separates into separate spectral colors of the rainbow.
In Germany and other European countries, the Feinschliff der Praxis or Practical Fine Cut, which is also known as the Eppler Cut, was introduced in 1939. Developed in Germany by empirical observations, it differed from the American Ideal only slightly. In 1969, Finland, Norway, and Sweden introduced the Scandinavian Standard as part of the Scandinavian Diamond Nomenclature which also differs very little from the aforementioned. Other industry benchmarks include the 1929 Ideal Brilliant by Johnson and Roesch, the 1951 Parker Brilliant, and the 1968 Eulitz Brilliant.
Hearts & Arrows Phenomenon
The term Hearts & Arrows refers to the visual effect achieved in a round brilliant cut diamond with perfect symmetry and ideal angles that exhibit a distinct pattern of Hearts & Arrows when viewed under a special magnifying lens. A complete and precise visual pattern of 8 hearts is seen when looking down the pavilion and 8 arrows can be seen when looking at the stone table facet up.
Passion Cut
The Passion Cut, developed by Israeli company ADR Kropveld Diamonds Ltd., consists of 81 facets and is a modification of the round Ideal Cut which maintains the basic proportions of its angles. The cut's design can be considered the opposite of Hearts & Arrows as it eliminates the arrows in order to capture a different light return from the center of the diamond when viewed table facet up. The cut splits the eight pavilion mains and dramatically enhances brilliance and hides inclusions. It is subject to copyright in the USA and Europe.
Historically, the round brilliant wasn't always as we know it today. It went through certain stages in its evolution with each advance in diamond cutting technology throughout the Medieval and Renaissance, all the way leading up to the development of the modern era's first industry benchmark in the 1900s.
The Old European Cut (OEC): Precursor to the Modern Brilliant
Developed in the mid 18th century, the Old European Cut was the forerunner of Modern Brilliants and was the most advanced in use in the 19th century. Its characteristics include a very small table, a heavy crown, a more rounded shape, and a shallower pavilion. To this day, this antique style cut attracts a select niche of gem collectors who love the charm of its Old World feel and aren't at all bothered by its relatively conservative fire when compared to a Modern Brilliant.
Industry Benchmarks for the Round Brilliant
In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky developed the American Standard, otherwise known as the American Ideal or the Tolkowsky Brilliant, which became the benchmark for North America. It was derived from mathematical calculations that considered both brilliance, or the total light reflected from the diamond, and dispersion, or how white light refracts and separates into separate spectral colors of the rainbow.
In Germany and other European countries, the Feinschliff der Praxis or Practical Fine Cut, which is also known as the Eppler Cut, was introduced in 1939. Developed in Germany by empirical observations, it differed from the American Ideal only slightly. In 1969, Finland, Norway, and Sweden introduced the Scandinavian Standard as part of the Scandinavian Diamond Nomenclature which also differs very little from the aforementioned. Other industry benchmarks include the 1929 Ideal Brilliant by Johnson and Roesch, the 1951 Parker Brilliant, and the 1968 Eulitz Brilliant.
Hearts & Arrows Phenomenon
The term Hearts & Arrows refers to the visual effect achieved in a round brilliant cut diamond with perfect symmetry and ideal angles that exhibit a distinct pattern of Hearts & Arrows when viewed under a special magnifying lens. A complete and precise visual pattern of 8 hearts is seen when looking down the pavilion and 8 arrows can be seen when looking at the stone table facet up.
Passion Cut
The Passion Cut, developed by Israeli company ADR Kropveld Diamonds Ltd., consists of 81 facets and is a modification of the round Ideal Cut which maintains the basic proportions of its angles. The cut's design can be considered the opposite of Hearts & Arrows as it eliminates the arrows in order to capture a different light return from the center of the diamond when viewed table facet up. The cut splits the eight pavilion mains and dramatically enhances brilliance and hides inclusions. It is subject to copyright in the USA and Europe.